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One thing I’m constantly missing in Colorado, after summer and fall wind down, are those long adventures outside. Where you spend the entire day in the fresh air, working up an appetite, and then arrive at a cozy destination like a beautiful backcountry campsite or a cute rustic hut in the mountains.
But then I discovered Tennessee Pass. And cross-country skiing. And my life was forever changed.
At Tennessee Pass near Leadville, Colorado, you can ski or snowshoe through a beautiful, snow-covered forest to a meal at the Cookhouse, then spend the night in a nearby sleep yurt (!!) During my first visit, we skied to have lunch at the Cookhouse and during my second, we decided to ski for dinner and sleep in the yurt overnight. This is one of my one of my favorite ways to experience winter in Colorado. And I also found that cross-country skiing is considerably more appealing when there’s a delicious dinner and a cozy bed waiting at the end.
Here’s how to plan your own visit, whether you’re coming for an afternoon or making a weekend of it!
Getting There and Skiing In
Tennessee Pass Nordic Center is roughly ~2 hours from Denver in good driving conditions, near Ski Cooper outside Leadville. You should always allow extra time for snow and mountain traffic, and leaving on a weekday (or even just a Friday morning) will definitely lessen the traffic burden.
You’ll check in at the Nordic Center before heading out on the groomed trails. The Cookhouse is a little over a mile away, while the sleep yurts are approximately 1.3 miles from the trailhead. It took us just under an hour to ski in at a relaxed pace, with plenty of time to enjoy the surroundings.
Do You Need Cross-Country Skiing Experience?
The first time I visited Tennessee Pass for lunch, most of my friends and I had never cross-country skied before. We made it to the Cookhouse, but there was definitely a learning curve. We literally fell…so…much. And even if you downhill ski, don’t assume XC will feel familiar! I found balancing much trickier, the skis themselves are skinnier, and controlling my speed and turns took some getting used to. Give yourself a bit of time to practice near the Nordic Center if you’re feeling nervous, especially if it’s your first time.
You absolutely don’t need to be an expert to have this experience, but being comfortable moving, turning, and slowing down on cross-country skis will make the trip more enjoyable. The route to the Cookhouse is roughly a mile with some uphill travel, so expect a little effort on the way in and some downhill sections on the return.
It took us just under an hour to ski in at a relaxed pace. Give yourself extra time if you’re new, especially with the altitude, and ask the Nordic Center staff about current conditions and the best route for your ability. If skiing feels intimidating, snowshoeing is another way to reach the Cookhouse and yurts.
There are green and blue XC trails you can enjoy once you check in, so the journey to your yurt doesn’t have to be your only ski outing. Start with an easier trail to get comfortable before committing to anything longer or steeper.
Dinner at Tennessee Pass Cookhouse
Dinner felt like such a cool, unique experience. You’ve traversed through the snowy forest and you sit down for a hot, multicourse meal inside a candlelit yurt.
We loved our food, and it was so incredible having the whole evening to enjoy our surroundings, without needing to walk back to our car and drive home. The current dinner includes an appetizer, salad, entrée, and dessert, with seasonal menu options.
Dinner is $135 per person, excluding alcohol, tax, and gratuity. Skis or snowshoes and headlamps are included with dinner; trail access as included for dinner guests. Those overnight spots do book up fast, especially for weekends, so be sure to reserve in advance. You’ll also need to submit your entrée selections at least 72 hours before your visit.
Book through Tennessee Pass or call (719) 486-8114. Your overnight accommodation requires a separate reservation.
Spending the Night in a Sleep Yurt
Okay, so what is it like to spend the night in a yurt at 10,000 feet?
After dinner, the sun had fully set so we slipped on our headlamps and followed a dark and snowy forest path back to our yurt. The smell of wood smoke filled the air, and we knew our very own little wood-burning fireplace was keeping our yurt nice and warm.
The yurts sleep up to six people sharing three full-size beds, including a full-size bunk bed. They have bedding, a wood stove with fire starter, a kitchenette, and potable water. There are shared outhouses just outside the yurt itself but there are no showers. Staff can transport any larger luggage during staffed check-in hours, so you can enjoy the ski in with a lighter pack. You can also arrange a pickup time on the morning of checkout to have your bags brought back to the Nordic Center.
Our yurt was around $350 per night when we visited, but be sure to check the booking calendar for current rates.
One thing to know from experience: the yurt gets cold overnight if the fire burns out. I was very happy to have warm pajamas and fluffy socks. If you want to keep it toasty, someone may need to get up in the middle of the night and add some wood. We woke up at around 2am feeling chilly because our fire had gone out and it was kind of a pain to have to restart it — especially since that is NOT something we are used to doing! So uhh…we struggled a bit. But it was an adventure!
What to Pack
Cross-country skiing warms you up quickly, but once you stop moving or head outside after dark, you’ll be glad you brought extra layers. Here’s what I wore and what I’d recommend packing.
Merino wool base layers: I love wearing Kari Traa base layers for skiing and honestly any winter activity (top + bottoms). They have the best colors and designs. Look for a moisture-wicking top and bottoms that you can comfortably layer under your outerwear.
A warm puffy jacket: Keep this handy for breaks and the walk back from dinner. It should be thin enough to layer under your ski jacket but still insulated.
Ski bibs and jacket: I wore my Kari Traa Johanne ski bibs over my base layers along with the matching Johanne ski jacket.
A warm hat, gloves, and wool socks: Pack a fresh pair of socks to change into once you reach the yurt.
Warm pajamas: I love my Kari Traa long-sleeve pajama set for sleeping — top + bottom. I also needed to layer with a fleece and cozy hat when our fire went out at 2AM! Fluffy, warm socks were also a must.
Headlamp: Essential for keeping your hands free on the snowy walk/ski between your yurt, the Cookhouse, and the outhouse.
A small daypack: Enough room for water, snacks, and spare layers while staff transport any larger overnight bags.
Personal essentials: Toiletries, medications, and any snacks or drinks you want for your stay.
A note on altitude: You’ll be above 10,000 feet, and I definitely felt more out of breath than usual even coming from Denver. Take it slowly and allow time to acclimatize. If altitude symptoms worsen, descend and seek medical help.
Visiting Just for Lunch
If an overnight stay doesn’t fit your plans, skiing to the Cookhouse for lunch is a fun adventure on its own (just remember you’ll have to ski back with a full belly). Winter lunch is only on Saturdays and Sundays, either at 12:00 PM or 1:30 PM, with advance reservations required. Be sure to confirm seating times, menu selections, and dining discounts on rentals and trail passes when booking!
For our lunch trip, we stayed at The Timberline in historic downtown Leadville and absolutely loved it! About 15 minutes from the Nordic Center, it made a cozy base for a weekend exploring the area.
And obviously, a trip to Leadville calls for a stop at Melanzana, the local outdoor clothing company behind the iconic “Melly” fleece. Their clothing is made in small batches right in Leadville, so quantities are limited. If you’re hoping to bring one home, check their current shopping appointment requirements before your trip! I was able to grab a Melly without an appointment by shopping the side of the store that’s basically open shopping. It typically doesn’t have as big of a color or sizing selection, but I lucked out and got this super cute green Melly in my size! There’s also a store that sells Mellys for DOGS. Obviously…I brought one back for Nigel.
Make a Weekend of It
If you want more skiing the following day, Ski Cooper is right by the Nordic Center and Copper Mountain is basically on your way back to dinner. These are both easy additions for some downhill ski time.
Whether you come for lunch or spend the night, Tennessee Pass brings together some of my favorite parts of Colorado winter: snowy trails, quiet woods, good food, and somewhere warm to end the day.
